Happily breakfasted we saunter down the road to Lake Ruataniwha, in a lovely grassy spot under the willows we inflate the boats and paddle out onto the glassy blue lake surrounded by brown hills and green willows. Ian is grinning. This is great paddling. We cruise around the corner through the rowing course and paddle sedately towards the mountains for a couple of hours. The paddling gets harder and harder and we realise there is a current in the lake. This seems unlikely since the lake is 300 metres wide. We eventually realise that it is taking all the flow from Lakes Ohau, Pukaki and Tekapo and the current is stopping our progress. We pull out and rejoin the walking Te Araroa. A vigorous walk to Lake Ohau following the perfectly paddleable but going in the wrong direction Ohau River. Then in blazing sunshine and a modest tailwind we jump on the lake.
We steadily work our way across the big lake pleased that this is so much faster than walking.
We cross the 8 km in less than two hours and arrive on shore next to the peaceful willows of Lake Middleton camp where we spend a calm night.
The trail then climbs through beautiful mountain beech forest beside the tumbling mossy Freehold Creek. This is my favourite landscape and we enjoy several cups of tea and a snooze beside clear cool cascades. The cold water tastes sparkly and refreshing.
The trail pops out of the bushline to tussocky tops and views of rocky peaks and waterfalls. Things go bad from there. The trail turns to a swamp, interspersed with speargrass and matagouri and ankle twisting rocks. Soon I am bleeding, bruised and less than amused.
By the time we stagger into Quailburn Hut we are pretty done in. The hut is a beech pole and corrugated iron musterers masterpiece. A cup of tea and the world is a good place again as we lie in the golden grass eating a delicious rice dinner. The next day we stroll along a fine trail through rolling tussock and clear streams to the shingle cliffs of the Ahuriri. The mountains have the last patches of glacier hanging on in the losing battle against climate change.
The river is dark blue, sparkly and uncrossble. Not that we couldn't easily cross, just that it would be a crime against gravity not to paddle down such a beautiful river. Soon we are splashing downstream through gravel chutes with big grins on our faces. The river is perfect. Fun little rapids and moving fast. We hit a little bedrock gorge at the Ireland Road bridge which has a few interesting rapids but nothing above grade 2. The didymo makes the rocks slippery so we can slide over them. (There - I said something nice about didymo). We cruise past the famous Omarama Clay cliffs. Towering pinnacles of clay. Then the river braids out and amusing little searches for the best flow ensues. All too soon we arrive at the highway bridge. There is a bench seat and we sit and check the internet is still there.
We walk the Alps to Ocean trail 3 km along the highway to Omarama. A huge burger and chips induces a tired happiness.
We declare a rest and eating day. We courier our boats ahead to Arrowtown. It is only $16 to avoid carrying them over the high passes.
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